Meeting our Shadows

How we can access emotional depth, growth and positive change through delving into the depths of our psyches—and, how clothing can be a conduit to this netherworld.

Myrte meeting her shadow while wearing a RISCO hat

Clothing can be a beautiful way to express and explore the darker sides of our selves. Colours, textures and shapes can connect with and symbolize our shadows; a way to own these parts and externalize them. Maleza Hatmakers “emphasize the beauty and complexity found in shadows, both literally and metaphorically” through their work. In this interview, we delve more into their process and philosophy.

Four Questions with Myrte Huyts and Javier Reta of Maleza Hatmakers

— Going Deeper with The Book of Kin Creators:

Maleza is the passion project of Myrte Sara Huyts and Javier Reta Gallego, who found each other through a shared love of old tools, linen bedding, and children’s drawings. Coming from diverse backgrounds—Myrte from The Netherlands with a focus on Literature and Javier from Spain with a foundation in Fine Arts—they decided to leave their previous careers to build something new together. Their shared vision gave birth to Maleza, a workshop where time slows down, creativity flourishes, and every hat tells a story.

In their Madrid atelier, filled with century-old tools and brimming with history, Myrte and Javier handcraft limited edition, bespoke, and one-of-a-kind hats. Each piece is carefully formed using both traditional and experimental techniques, making every hat a unique testament to their craft. They are known for their innovative use of upcycled felt and dead stock materials, which they transform into beautiful creations through sculptural methods and botanical dyes.

At Maleza, the past and future intertwine, as Myrte and Javier aim to create new traditions while honoring the old. Their hats are more than accessories—they are pieces of art that playfully escort a timeless craft into the 21st century. We invite you to discover the world of Maleza, where each hat is a story, and every story is crafted with care.

RISCO hat with a story on it

What inspires you creatively? Are there any books, artists, or experiences that have deeply influenced your work?

Myrte & Javier: We relate strongly to Informalism, an artistic movement that had its peak in Spain in the 1950s, with painters like Millares and Tàpies. We use abstract language, for which the materials play a decisive role. It is important to play with techniques, chance, and improvisation and question premeditated constructions to find a more intimate, poetic way of creating. Another inspiration comes from Japanese fired ceramic such as Raku ware, Hagi ware, or Bizen ware. Treatments are dependent on the kiln effects. The ceramic pieces fire under different conditions, with different results. We feel that embracing the unknown and the impossibility of predicting the outcome is key to finding a more honest and raw way to reveal the imperfectness and unexpected results of the human hand.

The Book of Kin highlights craftsmanship. What can you tell us about the artisans or craftspeople involved in creating your products? How do they contribute to the brand’s identity?

Myrte & Javier: Stories convey the culture, history, and values that unite people. The importance of telling stories in an alternative way drives Myrte Sara Huyts and Javier Reta, the founders of Maleza hatmakers. They create limited edition, bespoke, and one-of-a-kind genderless hats in felt and vegetable fibers, such as hemp and baobab straw. Coming from different countries—the Netherlands and Spain—and different fields—literature and fine arts—they decided to change careers and become hatmakers. This craft combines everything important to them: design, art, artisanship, and storytelling.

What is your brand’s approach to transparency and traceability in the supply chain?

Myrte & Javier: We are very conscious of the objectives for sustainable development throughout the entire production cycle. This means that in addition to closely examining the quality of the materials we use, we also consider their traceability—addressing the where, who, and how—to ensure that economically, socially, and ecologically, we are becoming more respectful and responsible every day. For example, we choose merino d’Arlés wool felt from a small cooperative in the Pyrenees, purchase fabrics with OEKO-TEX certifications, or obtain batches of abandoned hemp, vintage felts, or fabrics from second-hand sources.

All of our production is treated with natural gums made in the workshop, and a significant portion of our hats are dyed here with plant-based dyes. Wherever we can, we buy from local businesses. Our sweatbands are always made from vegetable-tanned leather from a century-old tannery in northern Spain. Another interesting point to highlight is that the wooden hat blocks used to shape all our pieces are designed by us and then crafted by a skilled artisan woodworker from Seville.

Fashion often reflects cultural shifts and societal values. How do you see your work contributing to larger conversations or movements, whether it’s in fashion or beyond?

Myrte & Javier: Everything appears excessively exposed, overly illuminated, flat, smooth, and lacking nuances. We shield ourselves and our possessions with impenetrable surfaces, such as the exterior of a mobile phone. As Byun Chul Han notes, “We resist vulnerability, steering clear of both inflicting and experiencing harm. Commitment is avoided, fearing potential damage.” Everything is about likes, and everything is soft, polished, washable, and, of course, cheap and without emotional anchoring, quickly interchangeable. Observing the subway scene yesterday, I noticed the rarity of traditional footwear. Instead, people don unconventional sneakers with implausible soles, resembling towering cliffs that distance us from reality and propel us towards an alternate realm—presumably one perceived as gentler and less harmful. In the shadow, objects acquire a beautiful and intricate depth that bright light fails to deliver. Craftsmen provide the smallness and the nuances that this world so desperately needs.

“We aspire to contribute to a positive transformation in the way we perceive and engage with our surroundings. By emphasizing the beauty and complexity found in shadows, both literally and metaphorically, and by championing the work of artisans who provide the subtleties our world needs, we hope to encourage a more thoughtful and sustainable approach to fashion and beyond.”

Interview by Dörte De Jesus and Elizabeth McLellan (The Lissome magazine).